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Alex Shepherd Roofing
Roofing service

Leadwork and lead flashing

Most roof leaks are not holes in the roof. They are failures where the roof meets something else: a chimney, a wall, a valley, a bay. Those junctions are what lead is for, and lead done properly outlasts almost everything around it.

Done badly, or replaced with cement and mastic because it was quicker, those same junctions become the thing that ruins the ceiling below.

Covering
East Lancashire & Craven
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Free, no pressure
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07840 031508

What we do

  • Chimney flashings, including stepped flashing, back gutters and soakers
  • Valleys, both open lead valleys and secret gutters
  • Abutment flashings where a roof meets a wall, as on extensions and dormers
  • Box gutters and parapet gutters, common on the terraces round here
  • Bay window roofs, which on Victorian property are frequently lead
  • Dormer cheeks and tops
  • Soakers and cover flashings on any junction
  • Lead slates around pipes and vents

Why cement is not a substitute

Walk round any terraced street locally and you will see chimneys with a wedge of cement where the flashing should be. It is quick, it is cheap, and it fails.

Cement is rigid. Lead moves, and a roof moves constantly with temperature. A cement fillet cracks within a few years, then holds water in the crack rather than shedding it, which is worse than nothing at all. Once it has cracked, water runs behind it and straight down the chimney breast.

If you have damp on a chimney breast, a cracked cement fillet is the most likely cause on this housing stock.

Doing lead properly

Lead work is specified by code, from Code 3 up to Code 8, which is simply how thick the sheet is. Heavier code goes where there is more exposure or more movement.

Two rules matter more than anything else, and both are broken constantly:

Lead must be allowed to move
Individual pieces have maximum lengths for exactly this reason. One long continuous run instead of properly lapped shorter pieces will split, because lead expands and contracts and something has to give.
It must be fixed and dressed, not stuck
Wedged into a raked joint, pointed, and dressed to shape with the right tools. Mastic holding lead in place means it was fitted by someone in a hurry.

Signs your leadwork has failed

  • Damp on a chimney breast, particularly after driving rain
  • Staining down an internal wall where an extension meets the house
  • Visible cracks in cement fillets around a chimney or abutment
  • Lead that has lifted, ripples, or shows a split along its length
  • Water in the room below a bay window
  • Green or white staining on a wall beneath a flashing

What leadwork costs

  • Lead is priced by weight and the code specified, so the material cost is real
  • Access, since chimney work almost always needs a scaffold
  • How much has to be cut out and made good, especially where cement has been hacked in
  • The complexity of the junction
Common questions

The things people ask us

Longer than most roofs. Properly fitted lead on a chimney will outlive the covering around it, which is why it is worth doing once rather than three times in cement.

It happens, mostly on churches and commercial buildings rather than houses.

Splits can sometimes be lead-welded, and a lifted flashing can be re-dressed and re-fixed. If it has split because it was one long piece with nowhere to move, it needs replacing correctly or it will simply do it again.

Reviews

What people said about the work

Read the reviews, then ring us and see if we match up.

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